Last Updated on June 23, 2025
From Skyline to Shoreline: A Journey Through Thailand’s Dual Charms
5.0 out of 5.0 stars
Thailand has a way of holding you in two places at once; one foot in the sensory overload of the city, the other dipped in the hush of the Andaman Sea. It’s this effortless shift from urban buzz to barefoot bliss that makes it the perfect destination for a city and beach escape. A country that thrums with life yet knows exactly when to exhale.
On a recent trip designed to showcase this striking contrast, I experienced both sides of Thailand in vivid detail. The journey began in Bangkok, a city that feels like it’s permanently turned up to eleven. After flying in with Thai Airways, I checked into the Amari Bangkok, a sleek downtown tower that offers refuge from the city’s chaotic energy.
Outside, tuk-tuks swerved like dancers between market stalls and glinting malls; inside, I watched it all unfold from a rooftop bar, cocktail in hand, the skyline burning gold at dusk.
And then, the shift. A short flight south to Phuket, followed by a scenic drive, brought us to Khao Lak, where the pace of the trip slowed to a whisper. At The Sarojin, a boutique resort nestled between jungle and sea, the noise of the world fell away. Here, the drama lies in the details: private pool villas cocooned in lush greenery, breakfasts that stretch lazily into midday, candlelit dinners on the sand, and a spa so tranquil it feels tuned to a different frequency entirely.
To experience Thailand through two hotels crafted for such different moods is to understand that the country’s true magic lies in contrast. Bangkok blazed with energy; Khao Lak exhaled in stillness. It wasn’t just a change of scenery, but a shift in rhythm – a reminder that Thailand doesn’t ask you to choose between exhilaration and tranquillity. It gives you both, effortlessly and without apology.
Exploring Bangkok
In Bangkok, staying put isn’t an option. On our first day, Amari arranged for us to explore the city in style via their luxurious electric tuk-tuk, a sleek, silent twist on the classic three-wheeler. It was the perfect way to take it all in: we cruised past the Erawan Shrine, watched the crowds ebb and flow around Siam Square, and wound through Bangkok’s ever-changing streets.
A highlight was the Jim Thompson House, a must-visit tucked into a lush tropical garden. This beautifully preserved teak home tells the story of the American entrepreneur who revived Thailand’s silk industry. Inside, it’s a treasure trove of Southeast Asian antiques and global curiosities, curated with elegance and care.
The enduring mystery of Thompson’s 1967 disappearance in the Malaysian Highlands adds a haunting layer that lingers long after you leave.
Lunch was followed at Krua Aroi Thai Restaurant, a local favourite that delivers an authentic taste of Thailand. I couldn’t resist Pad Kra Pao, my go-to Thai comfort food dish. There’s just something about that fiery mix of minced meat, garlic, and holy basil, piled over rice and crowned with a runny fried egg, that hits all the right notes. Paired with a cold, sweet Thai milk tea, jet lag is forgotten, and taste buds tingle. I’d truly arrived.
Shopping in Bangkok is a compelling pastime, and our group thoroughly enjoyed it. Platinum Fashion Mall is a frenzy of fast fashion – a multi-level maze where bargains await those who know what they want.
I preferred the nearby street markets, where shopping comes wrapped in atmosphere – sizzling food stalls, lively chatter, and plenty of treasures to unearth. For a more polished experience, the sleek retail temples of Siam Center, Terminal 21, and the riverfront IconSiam offer a curated, upscale take on retail therapy.
With three nights’ stay, we had two full days to dive deeper. At Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, we fully immersed ourselves in the cultural experience, donning traditional Thai costumes despite the monsoon rain, which led to endless photos and laughter.
Swapping tuk-tuks for a long-tail boat, we slipped into the slower rhythm of Thonburi’s canals. Gliding past stilted wooden homes, shrines, and everyday riverside life, it was a refreshing contrast, a reminder that beneath Bangkok’s buzz lies a quieter, more contemplative current.
For a different city perspective, we visited Amari’s sister property, the Oriental Residence Bangkok, nestled quietly on embassy-lined Wireless Road. This elegant hideaway deserves a longer stay, but for now, we savoured the Parisian poise of Café Claire with delicate pastries and savoury bites – a refined pause from the city’s hum, yet still woven into Bangkok’s rich, layered charm.
The Amari Bangkok
After a smooth overnight flight to Thailand with Thai Airways, whose direct service from London Heathrow makes the journey disarmingly simple, I arrived at Amari Bangkok, a 34-storey urban sanctuary in the heart of the Ratchathewi district. Steps from Platinum Fashion Mall and within easy reach of vibrant markets, revered shrines, and glittering shopping centres, the hotel sits firmly at the city’s cultural and commercial pulse.
We were welcomed with cool towels and refreshing juice, a small ritual of Thai hospitality that never loses its charm, before I headed up to the 15th floor. Amari’s 564 rooms and suites blend clean, contemporary design with quiet sophistication. Guests in Club rooms or suites enjoy access to Club Siraa, where personalised service, elevated dining, and an extra layer of calm offer a refined retreat from the city’s buzz.
My Premier Club Room was a serene retreat, with pale oak floors, blond wood accents, and a muted Thai-patterned rug punctuated by splashes of burnt orange and turquoise. A king-size bed, dressed in crisp white linen, faced floor-to-ceiling windows that framed panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline and the pool terrace below.
A tray of sweet and savoury Thai snacks was a thoughtful welcome. The marble bathroom featured a rain shower, double sinks, and fragrant amenities, while a Nespresso machine, minibar, plush robes, and fast Wi-Fi ensured comfort in every sense.
The 9th-floor pool offers a striking panorama of Bangkok’s soaring skyline – a serene spot to cool off above the city’s hustle.
Nearby, the impressively equipped gym makes it tempting to squeeze in a workout, though I was more drawn to the adjacent herb garden, where basil and lemongrass grow in neat rows.
After the long haul, only one option felt right: the Breeze Spa. Surrendering to my therapist’s expert hands for a signature full-body massage, I floated out an hour later, light-limbed and hazy-headed, the city humming far below.
Dining at Amari Bangkok is no casual affair – it’s crafted with food lovers in mind. Club Siraa guests enjoy peaceful breakfasts in the lounge, complete with made-to-order eggs, European and Thai dishes, a generous buffet, and even a glass of fizz to start the day in style (also perfect for cocktail hour).
Alternatively, Amaya Food Gallery buzzes with energy, serving a generous buffet at lunch and dinner that showcases Asian favourites with a local twist.
Dinner options are equally impressive. One evening, we savoured the refined flavours of ChomSindh, where classic Thai dishes are beautifully elevated through elegant presentation and bold, authentic spice. And of course, I couldn’t resist my all-time favourite – mango and sticky rice, perfectly sweet and comforting.
Another evening took us to India’s western coast at NILA, where rich curries, fresh seafood, and Portuguese influences combined in a menu both surprising and deeply satisfying.
For those craving Italian flair, Prego – sister to its famed Koh Samui counterpart – serves polished, contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in sleek surroundings.
Before moving on, a final nod to Amari’s cherry on top: on-site parking (a rare luxury in this city of relentless motion) and the dreamiest staff you could wish for. Warm, intuitive, and genuinely proud to share their city, they were the thread tying everything together, turning a great stay into something quietly unforgettable.
The Sarojin, Khao Lak
Leaving behind the vibrant energy of Bangkok, we boarded a short, comfortable Thai Airways flight south to Phuket, then enjoyed a scenic coastal drive to Khao Lak, where life’s pace gently slowed almost instantly. Picked up by The Sarojin team, we were greeted with welcome cool face cloths and ice-cold beer before being driven along a 90-minute route through sleepy villages and endless rubber plantations, arriving at the resort in the late afternoon — a serene retreat that felt like stepping into another world.
A Unique Resort – The Sarojin
Set on a quiet stretch of beach, this five-star resort and Michelin Two-Keys hotel immediately felt different – understated, elegant, and rooted in something more profound than luxury.
Named after the mythical Lady Sarojin, famed for her gracious hospitality, the resort feels more like a private estate than a hotel – elegant, personal, and warmly inviting. This sense of heart runs through everything. Conceived by British couple Kate and Andrew Kemp, the resort was due to open in late 2004, but just days before, the Boxing Day tsunami struck. What followed was a remarkable story of resilience. The Kemps chose not only to rebuild The Sarojin but to support the local community in doing so. Staff became family, and each of the 56 guest residences is named after someone who helped bring the dream back to life.
Wandering through the lush grounds, ten acres of tropical gardens cradling a centuries-old ficus tree, you feel that legacy. It’s in the gentle way the staff greet you, in the thoughtful details woven through the design, in the air itself, thick with frangipani and salt. With direct access to an 11-kilometre stretch of pristine beach and low-slung architecture that blends seamlessly with its natural surroundings, The Sarojin feels less like a hotel and more like an invitation to exhale.
I was more than happy to call this boutique hotel home for the next few days. We were in the warm and capable hands of Kade, The Sarojin’s longtime manager, who’s been part of the resort’s story for over 15 years. It’s immediately clear he’s not just running a hotel; he’s nurturing a community. There’s a deep-rooted loyalty here: over 70% of the staff have worked together for more than a decade, and the resort rewards that commitment.
After a year of service, employees are invited to return as guests with their families – full board, spa treatments, the lot, a rare and telling gesture in hospitality. The effect is palpable. There’s an ease and authenticity to the way things run, a sense of shared pride. No wonder guests come back again and again.
There are four categories of residences at The Sarojin – Garden Residences, Pool Residences, Two-Bedroom Pool Residences, and the Jacuzzi Pool Suite, which I was lucky enough to call home during my stay.
So spacious it felt more like an apartment, the suite opened out with polished oak floors and a calming palette of natural tones.
The living area featured elegant dark wood furniture with soft, neutral upholstery, a low coffee table topped with tropical fruit, and sliding wooden doors leading to a private terrace complete with a comfy lounger and a Jacuzzi – utter bliss!
Inside, every detail had been thoughtfully considered: a large bathroom with a rain shower, a freestanding oval stone bathtub strewn with flower petals on arrival, an additional outdoor shower, and even a second loo.
The bedroom centred around a dreamy four-poster bed draped in white gauze. A glass partition framed the en-suite area, where twin sinks and natural textures gave the space a sense of understated luxury. Finishing touches included silk robes the colour of black pearls, a yoga mat, umbrellas (just in case), slippers, and a beautifully woven beach basket, thoughtfully provided for your stay.
The kitchenette was discreetly stocked with the sort of snacks you want to eat, teas, a coffee machine, kettle, and a well-curated mini-bar – both soft and stronger options included. And the room service? Impeccable and near invisible. Each evening brought new delights: a pandan leaf sculpture on the pillow, or towel elephants perched on the bed – small, playful touches that gently reminded you this was no ordinary place.
Dining at The Sarojin is as relaxed or refined as you want it to be. One of my favourite rituals was starting the day with a leisurely breakfast beneath the ancient ficus tree at Ficus Restaurant, overlooking the lily-dotted lake. Served à la carte and available until 6 pm, it’s as unhurried as mornings should be – with cooked options, fresh juices, exquisite pastries, and even a glass of fizz if the mood strikes.
Evenings bring more choice: a beautifully plated Mediterranean menu by Chef Gogh served under the stars or inside the sleek glass-walled dining room.
For something more laid-back at The Edge, perched on the beach with sweeping views of the Andaman Sea, where Thai and Southeast Asian dishes are prepared with care. Dietary needs are handled seamlessly. And at The Edge bar, sundowners and sunsets go hand in hand.
And who knew Thailand produced wine worth talking about? At The Ficus Bar, we joined a Thai Wine Paddle Tasting hosted by the resort’s charming sommelier, Khun Sak, who guided us through a curated flight of local vintages. Relaxed, engaging, and a little bit eye-opening, it was the perfect pre-dinner ritual for the curious sipper.
But the real showstopper? A private dinner beside a waterfall in the nearby national park, lit by 500 flickering candles – one of the most magical settings I’ve ever experienced. Whether you’re celebrating an anniversary, a proposal, or simply the joy of travel, The Sarojin’s team can conjure unforgettable and wildly romantic moments in the most extraordinary locations. Ask, and the team will do their best to please.
The beach here is the kind you dream about: vast, powder-soft, and blissfully empty. Whether you’re padding out for an early morning wander or idling through a lazy afternoon barefoot in the sand, the pace is yours to choose. The invitation to relax isn’t loud, but it’s impossible to ignore.
Alternatively, you can lounge by the stunning pool, sinking into a comfy cabana shaded by swaying palm trees, soaking up the calm in perfect comfort.
Mornings might begin with yoga under the trees, easing into the day to the sounds of birdsong and soft sunlight. And if relaxation calls later on, there’s always the option of a treatment at Pathways Spa – a serene hideaway tucked into the greenery. I surrendered to a blissful full-body massage in an open-air treatment room, where the breeze drifted through and, in one, a baby owl had taken up residence in the rafters – a quiet, feathered companion adding an extra touch of magic.
Khao Lak excursions
The Sarojin offers more than a traditional resort stay. Guests can explore stunning national parks and gain rare insights into local Thai life through tailor-made excursions and meaningful community engagement. But this isn’t just a five-star retreat. Its commitment to sustainability and community runs deep, from vocational training for local youth to reforestation projects restoring fragile ecosystems. Here, luxury meets purpose.
During our stay, we ventured out to the local market, where the colours, scents, and chatter painted a vivid snapshot of everyday life. We also visited a cashew nut factory, where every single nut is shelled by hand – a painstaking, repetitive task carried out with care and resilience.
Watching the women at work was quietly humbling, a reminder of the human effort behind the things we so often take for granted. We also stopped by a rubber tree plantation and caught a glimpse of how rubber is farmed.
We also took the time to visit the Tsunami Memorial Museum and Wall – a quiet, moving space that honours the lives lost in the 2004 tsunami that devastated Khao Lak and the surrounding region. Names etched in stone, photographs, stories – it’s a sobering but important experience, offering perspective on just how far this community has come.
Another memorable stop was Wat Soi Kuibg Pimuk, a dazzlingly ornate temple, all gold leaf, mirrored mosaics, and intricate carvings.
I paused in the hush of its interior to light a candle for the Buddha – a small act of reflection in a place that shimmered with spirit and tradition.
And then there are the moments that feel lifted from another world – drifting slowly down a jungle-fringed river on a traditional bamboo raft. A gentle, lovely way to spend an afternoon. Kingfishers flashed in the branches overhead, local families cooled off in the fresh water, and the sense of calm was almost cinematic.
I also had the chance to give something back, planting native trees as part of The Sarojin’s ambitious ‘One Booking One Tree’ initiative – a long-term reforestation programme created to help rebuild and sustain the fragile coastal ecosystems in and around Khao Lak.
The resort has committed to planting at least one mangrove or sea almond tree for every booking, a promise that extends to all future stays. Each guest is invited to take part in the resort’s ongoing ‘Sarojin Cares’ activities during their visit, and tree planting is a highlight. Hands in the earth, surrounded by green shoots and laughter, it felt meaningful – a small but lasting contribution to a landscape still healing.
And a touching experience was visiting Avautis, a local school supported by The Sarojin and founded by parents dedicated to children and young people with autism. Here, students receive support in both educational development and practical life skills – from literacy and numeracy to tending chickens, collecting eggs, and crafting natural beauty products like soaps and moisturisers. It’s gentle, purposeful work that nurtures confidence and helps build a foundation for a more independent future. A visit that lingers in the heart long after you’ve left.
Other adventures at The Sarojin abound — from sea safaris and jungle treks to temple tours, horse riding, and even the chance to become an elephant owner for a day. The options are as enriching as they are unforgettable.
In truth, I didn’t want to leave The Sarojin – it’s the kind of place you could happily stay a while. But what truly makes it unforgettable is the warm, attentive staff who make you feel completely at home from the moment you arrive.
Contrasting Luxuries in Thailand
For those seeking a taste of Thailand’s dual charm without endless time, this journey between two very different yet equally wonderful hotels offers the perfect balance of adventure and relaxation. Fly direct with Thai Airways, and you’ll have the whole experience effortlessly sewn up — from the vibrant city buzz of Bangkok to the tranquil shores of Khao Lak.
Thinking of visiting Thailand? Find out more about planning a first trip to Thailand
Fact Box
I was a guest of Amari Bangkok and of The Sarojin. All content is editorially given.
Amari Bangkok, 847 Phetchaburi Rd, Khwaeng Thanon Phaya Thai, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400, Thailand
Amari Bangkok: A Deluxe Room starts from GBP 91 net per room, per night, on a room-only basis, based on two sharing a room. A Club Premier Room with Club Siraa Benefits starts from GBP 163 net per room, per night, including daily breakfast, based on two sharing a room.
For more information and to book, visit: www.amari.com/bangkok
The Sarojin, 60, Khuekkhak, Takua Pa District, Phang Nga 82220, Thailand
Low season (May-September): from £155 per night in a Garden Residence, two persons sharing per night, inclusive of all-day à la carte breakfast with sparkling wine.
High season: From £460 per night in a Garden Residence, two persons sharing per night, inclusive of all-day à la carte breakfast with sparkling wine.
For more information and to book, visit www.sarojin.com
I travelled to Thailand with Thai Airways.
Fly direct from London to Bangkok, Thailand with Thai Airways. Economy return fares starting at just £798. Book now at www.thaiairways.com
As Thailand’s national airline, Thai Airways is guided by its vision to be the National Premium Airline with Touches of Thai. With a focus on customer satisfaction, world-class service and sustainable growth, Thai Airways delivers exceptional travel experiences while driving shared value across all operations.
